By Dr. Manu Singh Walia, Board-Certified Dermatologist, The Derma House, Santacruz West, Mumbai

Pigmentation is one of the most common skin concerns in Indian skin types — and also one of the most frustrating. Many people try brightening serums, home remedies, or even over-the-counter peels, yet the pigmentation keeps returning or never fully fades.

Here are the top 5 medical reasons why your pigmentation may not be improving — and what you can do differently.

1. You’re Treating the Symptom, Not the Cause

Pigmentation is not a single condition.

It may be:

  • Melasma (hormonal)
  • Sun-induced tanning
  • Post-inflammatory pigmentation (after acne or rashes)
  • Friction-related pigmentation (underarms/neck)
  • Heat or pollution-induced

Each type needs a different treatment approach.If the root cause is not identified, pigmentation returns.

2. You Aren’t Using Sunscreen Correctly

Sunscreen is non-negotiable for pigmentation treatment.

Common mistakes:

  • Using too little
  • Using SPF only once a day
  • Choosing the wrong texture (leading to inconsistent use)

Correct Use:

  • SPF 30–50 + PA+++ or PA++++
  • Two-finger rule for face & neck
  • Reapply every 3–4 hours if outdoors.

Without proper sun protection, no pigment treatment will hold results.

3. Your Barrier Is Damaged

If your skin barrier is irritated (tightness, burning, redness), even the best actives won’t work and may worsen pigmentation.

Common causes:

  • Using too many active serums at once
  • Harsh scrubs
  • Frequent peels without guidance

Barrier repair must come before pigment correction.

4. Hormones May Be Involved

This applies especially if pigmentation is:

  • On the cheeks / upper lip / forehead
  • Comes and goes in cycles

This pattern strongly suggests melasma, which is triggered by estrogen, heat, stress, pregnancy, PCOS, or contraceptive changes.

Melasma needs long-term stabilization therapy, not temporary lightening products.

5. You Need a Combination of Treatments

Pigmentation rarely improves with one product or procedure.

A dermatologist may combine:

  • Topical actives: azelaic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, niacinamide
  • Chemical peels
  • Laser toning (Q-Switch/Pico)
  • Tranexamic acid (oral/topical)
  • Skin boosters or PRP for stubborn cases

Custom combination therapy gives faster, safer, longer-lasting results.

When to See a Dermatologist

If pigmentation:

  • Has lasted longer than 8–12 weeks
  • Keeps coming back even after treatment
  • Worsens after sun exposure or heat
  • Appears with acne or hormonal symptoms

You need a personalized, medically guided plan.

At The Derma House, Santacruz

We begin with:

✔️ Skin analysis (type & pigment depth)

✔️ Hormonal & lifestyle assessment

✔️ Customized treatment plan designed for Indian skin sensitivity

The goal is healthy, even-toned, stable skin — not over-lightened or over-treated skin.

FAQs

Q. How long does pigmentation take to improve?

A: Typically 4–12 weeks, depending on cause and consistency.

Q. Will pigmentation come back?

A: If triggers are not controlled — yes. 

With correct maintenance — results are long lasting.

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